Ingredients under Discussion
The European cosmetics industry examines and follows up any new findings affecting ingredients in order to ensure that its record for a high level of product safety continues.
Parabens
Parabens are a class of substances that have been used to preserve cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and food since the 1920s.
They play an essential role in ensuring the quality of cosmetic products and the safety of consumers who use them.
Scientific safety studies have shown that parabens pose no problem for human health when used in cosmetics. They are listed in the Cosmetics Directive as approved preservatives.
Phthalates
Phthalates are a family of chemicals sharing a similar chemical group within their molecular structure but each with its own unique spectrum of properties.
Safety is the first priority for cosmetic manufacturers. The cosmetics industry uses only one phthalate—diethyl phthalate (DEP). This has been fully safety assessed for use in cosmetics.
The Scientific Committee on Consuper Products (SCCP) has reviewed DEP twice and concluded both times that “the safety profile of diethyl phthalate supports its use in cosmetic products at current levels”.
In Europe every new cosmetic product is subjected by law to a safety assessment before it can be placed on the market. This assessment takes account of the toxicological profile of the ingredients, their chemical structure and level of exposure.
Uses for DEP
DEP is mainly used to render the alcohol in perfumes undrinkable. Because of its good safety record, DEP is accepted internationally by regulatory authorities for this purpose.
EU restrictions
Some phthalates were prohibited from use as ingredients in cosmetics under EU legislation that came into effect in 2005. Only a few of these were previously used in cosmetics. However, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products assessed the safety of unintentional trace levels of some of these phthalates and found them safe.
CMR Substances
The requirements of the Cosmetics Directive provide for a ban of substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic and toxic to reproduction (CMR) for use in cosmetic products.
There are three classes of such substances, divided into categories 1, 2 and 3.
Very few of the substances classified category as 1 and 2 would ever be considered for use as ingredients in cosmetic products. Typical examples of category 1 and 2 substances are petroleum refinery streams, fuels, pesticides or asbestos. Nevertheless they have to be listed in the Cosmetics Directive as being banned.
Those category 3 substances that could potentially be used as ingredients in cosmetic products must have undergone an extensive risk assessment and evaluation by the SCCP before they may be used.
The regulatory approach taken is an initiative to control all CMR substances. However, the classification of such substances as CMR, is based on properties which chemicals may have in their pure form (hazard). A classified substance can be perfectly safe under the specific conditions of use such as in cosmetics.
Web links
SCCP's Extended Opinion on Parabens, underarm cosmetics and breast cancer